It is late in the morning, but still, the literary cafes are invaded by nonchalant “Portenos” peacefully reading their newspaper. This is how we call the inhabitants from Buenos Aires, this cosmopolitan city with “Parisian Latin-American” looks. Whilst the curious explore the historical May Plaza, the avenues and their colonial buildings, and go for a walk on the rough pavement of San Telmo, the local “mate” is being served near the fluorescent facades of Boca. The tango and its gracious steps are present during most of the milongas evening, filling the room with happy and pugnacious emotions. We leave the city atmosphere towards the mystical plains, on Buenos Aires doorstep, where we chose to stay at a traditional “estancia” to meet the “gauchos”, the “lonely ones” in the quechua language. Around the table, we listen to the horse whisperers talking about their laborious lives, whilst the professional polo players tell us about their prowess. In the nearby village of San Antonio, the craftsmen still braid leather to make the rider’s saddles. It is on that earthly authentic powerful note that we leave the noble Pampa to follow a lonely road heading south. Crossing the peaceful mounts of the Bariloche area where every new day is a good excuse to test a new excursion in the nature: from trekking to white water rafting in the huge National Park of Nahuel Huapi or a boat trip and fishing towards Victoria Island. With a bit more time, we could follow the Seven Lakes Road which crosses the Andes into Chile. For now, we head down towards the National Park Los Glaciares which will turn out to be one of the best visits of the trip. The sinuous track, which one follows by foot, shine in the peaceful early morning light where silence is sometimes interrupted by the muffled nose of the glaciers. Just after the last curve on the road, the glacier Perito Moreno appears in all its grandeur. With our ice grippers’ boots, the ascension of this icy monster starts in a blinding landscape listening to the mountains cracking. At the top, we breathe in the fresh and vivifying air of Patagonia whilst admiring the moving panorama of the icy wall in front of us…
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